Our Plane Out of Sydney is Almost Gone

Again, let me begin by apologizing for the absence of entries over the last several weeks. Between school and sailing and Christmas parties, we have managed to be quite busy; not to mention the fact that we have been preparing to return home for the holidays. Needless to say, we are sorry, and without any further fanfare, let us catch you up on our recent activities.

For my part, I feel- quite appropriately- that summer vacation has already started. Since classes concluded three weeks ago, I have simply been trying to enjoy the relative absence of obligation and the nice warm weather. I have been racing on the harbour with Rob and Sue on the Shiralee; I have presented at several Rotary Clubs; I've been trying to surf (although still without much luck); and I've been catching up on some reading. On a more serious note, I have been working on law school applications, most of which are due around the beginning of February. In sum, I have thoroughly enjoyed my free time over the last few weeks, and like Callie, I am looking forward to the upcoming time at home with friends and family. 

In terms of our joint activities, Callie and I, as of Monday evening and thanks to a Sydney Cove Rotarian by the name of John Hastings, have attended an opera, Charpentier's David and Jonathan. Having never witnessed an opera before and therefore in the absence of any formal expectations, it was quite a unique experience. The opera was primarily in French, and the story itself was one of incredible pain and tragedy, which was captured quite powerfully. As of now, I'm not sure that Callie and I desire to become opera aficionados, but we are quite grateful for the introduction. Additionally, we had the opportunity to meet up with John and Kathy for lunch and an afternoon trip to Kurrajong and the Hawkesbury River Valley this past Sunday. Kurrajong is about forty-five minutes to an hour northwest of Sydney and is nestled above the beautiful Hawkesbury River and the surrounding pastoral valley, which reminded Callie and I of parts of rural Alabama. Lunch was great and we enjoyed catching up with the Blahuts as an early Christmas get-together. Beyond that, we have been working to finalize our trip when we arrive back in Australia in early January, and we've been trying to get everything packed. 

I suppose it goes without saying how much we are looking forward to seeing everyone over Christmas and New Years, but at the same time, I think that we will miss Australia in the interim. Granted, we have another semester in the country, but Australia has been such a beautiful and inviting place and this has been such an incredible experience thus far that I think we have come to establish a sense of comfort and identity in this place. We have been lucky to meet some unbelievable people who have provided us with some phenomenal opportunities, and thanks to their grace and hospitality, I think we have begun to think of Sydney a little bit like a second home. Before I digress any further, I'll let Callie show off what she's been making over the past weeks, but as we prepare to return home, I am again struck by how fortunate we are to have this experience, a gift that we are both very thankful for.    

Raspberry Mousse Gateau

A border of chocolate tulip paste and joconde (almond-based sponge) surrounds a mousse comprised of raspberry puree and whipped cream topped with a layer of raspberry glaze.

Brasilia Gateau

Alternating layers of rum-soaked joconde and caramel buttercream are topped with nougatine, toffee-like sheet of caramel and flaked almonds.

Le Fraisier 

A combination of strawberries, sponge and Kirsch-flavored Mousseline Creme (pastry cream and whipped butter) are finished with a layer of pink marzipan.

I completed the Intermediate portion of my studies yesterday, and as you can see, we've been focusing on various gateaus over the past couple of weeks in anticipation of the portion of the Superior assessment in which we will each design and prepare our own gateau.  As much as I enjoy going to class each day, the Christmas holidays will provide a needed break from my usual routine.  That said, we're looking forward to seeing everyone soon!

Wilson's Food for Thought

So I was thinking . . . Callie has been sharing her work during this semester complete with pictures and descriptions and recipes, and I thought that I might do the same.  Obviously, my work has been more theoretical and certainly less satisfying in terms of your ability to eat it, but I wanted to share a little of what I've been thinking about and working on over the course of this past term.  

The paper below was written for my class in "Australia in Diplomacy, Defence and Trade," which was a survey of Australia's regional and international foreign policy involvement since the time of Federation.  I know that it's a little longer than normal posts, but I hope it provides some understanding of Australia's strategic worldview and offers a window into my work during our time in Australia.  While it is unquestionably less appetizing than Callie's work, I hope that it is equally informative.  Enjoy.

The Case for Continuity: A Historical Examination of Australia's Foreign Policy

Introduction
Over the relatively brief historical period since Federation in 1901, Australia has accumulated a significant body of foreign policy experience. From its considerable involvement in the First World War to the current military deployment in Afghanistan, from helping institutionalize the Asia Pacific Economic Cooperation to managing the Sandline Affair in Papua New Guinea, Australia has exercised a substantial role both within its region and in relation to the broader international system. While policies have often been revised, adjusted, or redefined in response to particular circumstances or to meet the political proclivities of individual governments, Australia’s strategic thinking reflects a remarkable degree of consistency. This is not to suggest that Australia’s foreign policy has not changed over the last century because it certainly has. Rather, throughout history, Australia seems to exhibit similar concerns and priorities relative to its international position and geo-strategic interests, thereby imbuing its foreign policy with a general sense of continuity.

Due to its limited influence as an international middle power and its geographic position between Asia and North America, Australia is confronted with a peculiar tension. The United States is Australia’s closest strategic ally, a military and economic relationship that has been vigorously cultivated over the last century. However, Australia is geographically positioned on the edge of Asia, a region that is now commanding a greater proportion of Australia’s economic interest and resources. While this particular tension is a more recent development in Australian foreign relations, Australians have always demonstrated an awareness of their precarious strategic environment (Gyngell and Wesley 2007). Fearful of great power conflict or uncertain about regional instability, Australia appears to be acutely cognizant of its changing surroundings, which provides the basis for understanding the continuity in its foreign relations.

Specifically, Australia’s foreign policy reveals a commitment to multilateralism and the use of international institutions, an inclination towards more assertive and activist decision- making, a disposition towards pragmatic policy thinking, and a penchant for “coalition-building diplomacy” (Gyngell and Wesley 2007). These common policy features are shaped by Australia’s external geo-strategic environment, and they are derived from Australia’s broader desire for regional stability and normalized relations. The following essay will explore three areas of foreign policy that evidence this tendency: the strategic alliance with the U.S., the relationship with Indonesia concerning the situation in East Timor, and the deepening economic cooperation with China. In each of these instances, as with other foreign policy events throughout its history, Australia has exhibited a consistent commitment to maintain a sense of strategic equilibrium, and it is this interest in regional stability and cooperation which upholds the thesis of continuity.

Strategic Partners: The U.S. Alliance
Arguably the most important component of Australia’s external relations is the alliance with the United States. Beginning with the arrival of the Great White Fleet in 1908 and particularly due to America’s action in arresting Japanese aggression in the South Pacific during World War II, Australia became and has remained a loyal partner of the United States (Alves 1993). Moreover, with the ascendancy of the U.S. in the post-war world, the Australia-U.S. relationship developed into a way for Australia, by joining with a larger power, to protect both itself and its regional interests (Tow & Albinski 2002). As such, the Australia-U.S. relationship is the basis for ensuring Australia’s strategic protection and stability. In terms of security continuity, Australia has fought beside the United States in every major military conflict from Korea to the current War in Iraq. Australia and the U.S. share a binding defence agreement in the ANZUS Treaty. And every government- both Labor and Coalition- have, with varying degrees of intensity, supported the U.S. alliance (Edwards 2005). More recently, with the events of 11 September 2001, the bilateral relationship between Australia and the U.S. has intensified as Australia enthusiastically joined the “coalition of the willing” in both Afghanistan and Iraq. Additionally, Australia has been an active partner in terms of supporting the Bush Administration’s anti-terrorism policy in the region, and both nations have increased intelligence sharing and defence force cooperation (Bell 2007). While there are obvious challenges and points of divergence within the Australian-American relationship, such as in regards to China and the prospect of global power redistribution, there can be little doubt that sustaining such a relationship, at least for now, is necessary to protect Australia’s regional security interests (Edwards 2005).

In terms of economic continuity, Australia’s alliance arrangement with the U.S. has facilitated stable trade relations both between Australia and North America and between Australia and the Asia-Pacific. While a formal free trade agreement between Australia and the U.S. was not codified until 2004, the U.S. has always been a significant market for Australian exports and a source of high-quality goods and services (Gyngell and Wesley 2007, DFAT Country). Furthermore, thanks to the wider U.S. bilateral alliance system, Australia has been able to enjoy stable trade relations with U.S. partners in the region, specifically Japan and South Korea who rank first and fourth respectively as the top destination for Australian exports (DFAT Trade). In terms of a specific policy action that indicates continuity, Australia’s support for the creation of the Asia Pacific Economic Cooperation is highly instructive. Wanting to avoid East Asian economic asymmetry should the United States withdraw from the region following the end of the Cold War, Australia effectively lobbied to incorporate the U.S. into the regional architecture of the Asia-Pacific (Gyngell and Wesley 2007). On the surface, such a position reveals Australia’s reliable commitment to the U.S., but at a deeper level, it demonstrates Australia’s underlying concern about the prospect of regional imbalance. With the creation of APEC, Australia is able to enjoy a forum that engages the U.S. as a counterweight to the economic powers in East Asia, which is congruent with Australia’s guiding overall interest in strategic equilibrium.

Indonesia and the Case of East Timor
As Australia’s largest regional neighbor, Indonesia has been a long-standing source of concern and anxiety for Australian policy makers, and no one area was more problematic than the situation in East Timor (McDougall 2007; Ayson 2007). Before 2000, Australia, wanting to “maintain a strong bilateral relationship”, had supported Indonesia’s territorial incorporation of East Timor with very few reservations (Goldsworthy 2003). According to James Cotton, “governments of both persuasions had regarded the question of positive relations with Indonesia to be of far greater moment than the right to self-determination of the East Timorese” (2001). This policy stance unequivocally supports the notion of continuity developed earlier, as Australia was acting in such a way to preserve stable relations between states. However, as the situation deteriorated, with reports of mass killings, forced starvation and sexual violence against the East Timorese, Canberra did gradually adjust its position. Australia supported an act of self-determination for the East Timorese, and following a period of election violence and intimidation, actually led a UN peacekeeping operation know as UNAMET (Cotton 2001). While this adjustment apparently undermines the continuity in Australian thinking, the change is nonetheless compatible with Australia’s attention to wider regional interests.

In the period before 2000, Australian policy continuity relative to Indonesia was easily identifiable. As previously mentioned, Australia was more concerned about preserving stable relations with Indonesia, particularly given the negotiations of the Timor Gap Treaty that would give Australia claim to potentially undiscovered petroleum reserves. Furthermore, within the wider conditions of the Cold War, Australia was not inclined to confront a regime that was fighting- albeit brutally- against communist expansion. Thus, Australia’s action can been observed as seeking to safeguard regional balance at the expense of East Timor’s sovereignty. Once Australia began to incrementally redefine its policy, however, continuity, although still present, was somewhat more difficult to identify. First of all, the change in Australia’s position was arguably encouraged by growing international pressure to resolve the crisis (Goldsworthy 2003). Within this context, Australia’s actions helped diffuse such pressure, thereby returning a sense of stability to the region. At the same time, Australia’s leadership in UNAMET focused specifically on incorporating the operation’s ASEAN representatives, a gesture that signaled a commitment to coalition-building diplomacy and wider regional engagement (McDougall 2007; Goldsworthy 2003). Lastly, subsequent Australian governments have been conspicuously silent in pursing accountability for Indonesian leadership for the atrocities in East Timor, which seemingly supports the notion that Australia is still concerned about not upsetting the sensitivities of its largest neighbor (Akerman 2008). Thus, while Australia did alter its position towards Indonesia and East Timor, it did so in such a way that upheld its geo-strategic interests by assuaging international concern and facilitating regional cooperation- both of which helped stabilize relations.

Growing Economic Cooperation: China
There is perhaps no better example of Australia’s pragmatic desire to maintain strategic balance than its policy towards China. Undoubtedly precipitated by the incredible expansion in trade, Australia’s current relationship with China has “deepened and broadened to an extent that few observers had forseen” (Zhang 2007; Frost 2007). China is now Australia’s second largest trading partner, driven primarily by China’s seemingly unquenchable demand for energy and mineral resources, and this increasing economic cooperation has encouraged greater political, security, and cultural integration (DFAT Trade; Zhang 2007). However, Australia’s relationship with China has not always been harmonious, as Australia is particularly vulnerable to acrimony in U.S.-China relations (Malik 2001). As discussed earlier, Australia has been willing to diverge from specific U.S. interests, and this divergence, on several key policy issues related to China, provides considerable evidence of Australia’s longstanding commitment to regional stability.

Foremost, Australia has been more openly conciliatory “towards Beijing on such sensitive issues as human rights, the future of Taiwan, and North Korea” (Bell 2007). These positions are visibly incongruent with U.S. policy, but from Australia’s perspective, they are necessary to manage the inherent economic and political asymmetry in Australia-China relations (Tow 2008; Zhang 2007). In other words, Australia is forced to moderate its policy towards China because of its economic dependence and geographic proximity, which reinforces the stability continuity thesis. Additionally, Australia was strongly supportive of China’s bid to join the World Trade Organization and to host the 2008 Olympic Games. These actions demonstrate a practical attention to the Australia-China relationship, as “Canberra displayed an increasing willingness to accommodate China’s growing influence in the region” (Zhang 2007). The result has been increased high-level government visits, institutionalized dialogue, people-to-people networking, and the beginnings of negotiations on a free trade agreement (Zhang 2007). Each of these developments has augmented the bilateral relationship between Australia and China, and in so doing, it helps protect against the prospect of significant regional disturbance. Thus, as with other areas of Australian foreign relations, continuity exists in the dominant commitment to preserve regional constancy.

Conclusions
In the final analysis, continuity in Australian foreign affairs is defined not by an unwavering or inalterable commitment to any one country or policy, but rather it is characterized by an enduring commitment to maintain balance in its strategic environment. Given its relative size and strength, Australia simply cannot afford to offend or alienate its larger regional neighbors, and this reality is specifically visible in Australian policy towards the U.S., Indonesia and China. The inevitable consequence of this situation is that Australia’s interests are best served by managing its external affairs in an extremely careful and pragmatic way so as to preserve stable relations. Australia’s use of coalition-building diplomacy and its affection for multilateral institutions are explicit manifestations of these interests, and while there may be policy inconsistencies towards an individual country or issue (such as with the aforementioned case of East Timor), the broader commitment to stability permeates Australia’s thinking. Certainly the desire for regional equilibrium is not uniquely Australian; understandably, most countries seek stable foreign relations. However, with Australia’s precarious position juxtaposed between the competing loyalties of North America and Asia, strategic balance is a greater imperative if Australia is to thrive in the times ahead.

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Now Wilson has always told me that he knows how to sail, and I never really doubted him, but it was about time that he proved this claim.  And that's exactly what he did Friday at the Sydney Cove Rotary Club's annual charity regatta.  After donning ourselves in those oh-so-flattering Rotary baseball caps (see exhibit A), the event organizers put us to work welcoming the regatta participants and loading the yachts with the day's rations of beer and wine.  Our volunteer efforts in the morning were certainly rewarded, as skippers Rob and Sue welcomed us aboard their 47-foot luxury sailboat "Shiralee" for the duration of the race.  Shiralee was among the ranks of some of Australia's most famous racing sailboats, many of which participate in the annual Sydney to Hobart race.  Needless to say we were humbled by the opportunity, and I was particularly excited to be on a sailboat for the first time in my life.  

When Rob called for assistance managing the sails, Wilson jumped at the chance and was placed in charge of the starboard foresail sheet (translation: the rope on the right side that controls the sail in the front).  Apparently the sailing community speaks an entirely different language; I quickly learned what "tack" means once I flew from my comfortable upright position into the floorboard as the boat heeled (tilted) to one side at a very steep angle.  And then I almost flipped over backwards into the shark-laden harbour when we tacked in the opposite direction.  Eventually I got the hang of it and Wilson proved to be a competent sailor.  In fact, he's planning to crew with Rob and Sue this Wednesday evening during their weekly sunset race (which will be good since he has ample free time now that class is over).

After a good night's sleep and a morning swim, we made our way into the city to catch a train to Katoomba, a town in the Blue Mountains.  What was supposed to be a two-hour train ride turned into an hour wait, then an hour and a half bus ride, and then another hour train ride due to track repairs.  But, as we stepped foot inside the Lilianfels resort, we knew our destination would be well worth the travel.  Auntie Beth and Mary had given us this getaway as a Christmas gift last year, which is the only reason we were lucky enough to be spending the night in this elegant boutique establishment.  Quite frankly, it was one of the most pleasant hotels I've ever stayed in - our room was charmingly decorated in a raspberry-colored toile motif to boot!  It looked a bit like my room at home...

I must also highlight the 3 course gastronomic masterpiece that was our dinner Saturday evening at the award winning Darley's Restaurant, and I do not exaggerate.  As the fog rolled through the mountain vista in front of us, Wilson and I consumed the finest meal we've eaten since arriving here in Sydney.  Just to make your mouth water: twice baked local goat's cheese souffle with shaved fennel and pea sprouts to start followed by milk-fed veal with white asparagus, swiss brown mushrooms, local walnuts, and black truffle butter.  And then, just before our tummies expired, a warm Belgian dark chocolate tart.  Delicious.

The fog began to clear in the morning and we were able to fully enjoy the splendor of the mountains, including the Three Sisters rock formation (that's me, the fourth sister, above).  We finished the morning with a leisurely bushwalk before making our way back to Sydney, fully relaxed and rejuvenated.  After recounting these experiences to Mom and Dad via Skype, Dad commented on how rich our experience has been thus far.  He's exactly right, but it's only because of the profound generosity and support of our families, the Rotary community, and the other friends we've made here in Australia.

Surfs Up

Don't worry . . . that's not me.

But, like the image perhaps suggests, we did learn how to surf this past weekend.  Learning may be a slight exaggeration, but Callie and I did attend the Manly Surf School where we we received a very elementary introduction to the basic concepts and procedures necessary to balance upon a small unstable board as a mass of water propels you violently towards the shore.  It's a lot harder than it looks . . . and it looks hard already.  Undeterred by the difficulty, we enjoyed the experience and afterwards met up for lunch with a Rotary ambassadorial alumni who actually lives in Manly.  The rest of the weekend was primarily spent preparing for exams and working on papers, all of which was not nearly as fun as attempting to surf.

We attended the Rotary District President's Dinner on Friday night to formally farewell the out-going ambassadorial scholars who are leaving at the end of the semester, and we also enjoyed Alabama's exciting, albeit nerve-racking, win against LSU.  Callie has recently been working on danishes and breads, and beyond that, things are pretty normal.  Australia has been euphoric this past week in light of Obama's election, while simultaneously being mildly devastated after losing to India in cricket.  I'll officially be finished with my first semester on Wednesday as exams conclude, and this weekend we have the Rotary Charity Regatta, a high-class, yacht race fundraiser for Sydney's Children's Hospital Randwick, along with a trip to the Blue Mountains.  Hopefully I'll do better on my finals than we did learning how to hang ten.  

The Melbourne Cup: Australia's Kentucky Derby

I know that we just posted yesterday, but I wanted to take this opportunity to talk about one of the many unique Australian traditions we have encountered thus far, The Melbourne Cup.  

On the first Tuesday of November, Australia effectively stops everything to enjoy a day of fancy hats and expensive cocktails and nation-wide gambling that accompanies the thoroughbred racing at the Flemington Racecourse in Melbourne.  People who have never placed a bet in their life take the chance to pick a winner based on the color of the jockey's uniform or the horse's nationality or the position of the lunar calendar.  It is quite simply a spectacular occasion of frivolity.

The race itself is 3,200 meters, and this year's winner in a photo finish was a 40-1 favorite called Viewed.  It was a great race and a fun day, and it is certainly a justifiable excuse to take the day off.   

Markets, Finals, and the U.S. Election

I hope everyone enjoyed Callie's last food post, and while this entry will not be nearly as attractive, we did want to update everyone on what we've been up to the last couple of weeks.  Beginning with last weekend, Callie and I returned to Paddington (see previous posts for a more thorough description) to peruse one of Sydney's many weekend markets.  We browsed through nice clothes and expensive artwork and generally enjoyed the pleasant weather.  We inspected cupcake shops and second-hand book stores and attempted to infiltrate the Victoria Barracks . . . too bad they're still in use.  We walked back along Oxford Street into the city where we met a Rotary GSE (Group Study Exchange) Team from Brazil at the home of Patricia Harrison for a cocktail party over the harbour.  And finally, we finished the evening at the Opera Bar with Dom Blahut and several of his friends.  Needless to say, Sunday was more subdued.

This past week was relatively normal: Callie is still enjoying her classes and exams have officially started for me.  I had a final in Global Environmental Politics on Thursday, but I have this week off to study before the rest of my finals.  Also this past Tuesday, I, along with another Rotary Scholar in the district, Clayton Solomon, did a joint presentation on the U.S. election to the Rotary Club of Sydney.  We discussed the state of the race (which looks to be in the bag) and ruminated on what a McCain or Obama administration might look like in the first 100 days.  The presentation was generally well-received, and I enjoyed the opportunity to reflect from a distance on the nature of this incredibly long and historic event.  

Over the weekend, we met up with some Rotary friends,  John and Jill Henderson for a food-oriented tour of Balmain and Rozelle, two neighborhoods between where we live and the city.  Callie was thoroughly excited about the abundance of coffee shops, bakeries and organic markets, and I think that she received at least half a dozen job offers when they found out she was in culinary school.  Beyond that, we are enjoying Australia's dominance in the Rugby League World Cup, and we are, like the rest of Australia, anxiously awaiting the U.S. election results.  As I mentioned earlier, it looks like Obama will win, but I will confess that I am somewhat disenchanted.  Being in Australia for the last several months has provided me with some distance and perspective on the race that I didn't have when we were at home, especially when I was working for the campaign during the primary.  As Obama and McCain have traded blows over the financial crisis and William Ayers and the strategy for Iraq and Joe the Plumber, it occurred to me that neither of these candidates are quite as good as we had hoped for and expected.  For Obama, a young, intelligent and inspiring figure: there are holes in his claim to bipartisanship, examples of politically motivated flip-flopping, and persistent doubts about the substance of his policy recommendations.  For McCain, a proven, honorable and independent public servant: there are significant questions about his nomination of Sarah Palin, his devotion to the Bush Administration, and the antipathy and vitriol that characterized his campaign over the last several months.  In a race that had so much potential, I would simply offer that each candidate has failed to be the best that they could have been . . . and that's disappointing.  Anyway, we'll see what happens Tuesday (or Wednesday here I guess).      

Warning: You may want dessert after reading this...

Croquembouche

Well, I though I would share a few photos of what I've made in my Intermediate course thus far.  Above is a Croquembouche constructed out of hand-made truffles.  "Croquembouche" in French translates as "crunch in the mouth," as it is traditionally a tower of profiteroles (choux filled with pastry cream) bound together by caramel (the crunch).  As you might imagine, the truffles didn't remain on the tower very long before I began to deconstruct it...and now I'm hoarding them in the freezer.

Gateau Mille Feuille

Here in Australia this cake is usually called "Vanilla Slice," which seems to me overly simplified and insufficiently descriptive (thanks, Wilson thesaurus).  "Gateau Mille Feuille" means "Cake of a Thousand Layers" in French, and appropriately so, as it contains several layers of pastry cream sandwiched between puff pastry.  The top is glazed with fondant, and the sides are covered in toasted flaked almonds. Yummmmmmy!  I took several pieces to the cafe, which was a mistake, as several people are begging me to make it again.  Little do they know that it took an entire 3 1/2 hour class to produce this one cake, even after making the puff pastry a day in advance.

Tart au Chocolat Noir

(Dark Chocolate Tart)

This tart is comprised of a chocolate short pastry crust (it resembles chocolate shortbread)  and a simple filling that consists of dark couverture chocolate, cream, milk and an egg.  It wouldn't be difficult to make at home, but the short pastry is a bit fragile and easily overworked.  The secret to a good chocolate tart, of course, is good chocolate - Dutch process cocoa powder for the crust and high-quality dark chocolate for the filling.  

Gateau Concorde

I realize that this cake may appear rather complicated, but it isn't nearly as difficult to produce as it may seem.  The interior of the cake consists of layers of baked meringue alternating with chocolate mousse.  The exterior is covered in the same mousse, which serves to adhere the meringue "sticks" that line the side of the cake, and any remaining meringue is piled in the center of the cake in a random fashion.  Wilson has renamed this "Fort Cake" and insists that I make it again at Christmas (it is really tasty).  

The chocolate mousse recipe we used for this cake was as simple as they come, but also delicious, so I though some of you might like to try it:

8 ounces high-quality dark chocolate, melted

1/4 cup milk, warmed

2 cups heavy cream

Combine melted chocolate and warm milk and stir until smooth.  Whip cream until it is 3/4 whipped (very soft peaks) and place in the refrigerator.  Bring chocolate mixture to 45 degrees Celsius (113 degrees Fahrenheit) over a double boiler or water bath.  Remove whipped cream from the fridge and pour in chocolate, whisking until partially combined (this prevents the mixture from splitting).  Then, using a spatula, gently fold the chocolate and cream together until just combined.  The mousse will begin to set as the chocolate cools, and it should be kept in the refrigerator.

Weekend Update

So . . . let me begin with a little anecdote about how small the world is.  Callie and I were on the bus to Bondi Beach on Saturday to enjoy the beautiful weather and the Sculpture by the Sea exhibit when we were passing through a charming neighborhood called Paddington.  Paddington is a posh, yet naturally affable, suburb on the southern side of the harbour- a place where you might expect to see a mom dressed in Dolce&Gabanna jeans driving a Maserati convertible down shaded streets past hip boutiques and terrace homes.  Needless to say it is quite a nice place, and while we were enjoying the trip, our bus stopped by one of the many corner bakeries.  As I turned to say something to Callie, out walks someone who had on an Alabama football shirt.  Now I don't want to make this into a partisan Alabama-Auburn thing (it would be just as exciting to see an Auburn shirt), but it was pretty remarkable to be over 9,000 miles away from home and see a fellow fan of the Crimson Tide.  

Following this surprising encounter, we spent the afternoon at Bondi enjoying the sun and the artwork along the beach.  I should also mention that we had visited the Powerhouse Museum in the morning, so our Saturday was quite eventful.  On Sunday, we attended the Rotary District Conference at the University of Technology Sydney, a celebration of the incredible work local clubs have been doing over the past year and an opportunity to find inspiration for the work ahead.  The ambassadorial scholars in the district had a chance to briefly introduce themselves, and we were each reminded of the call to "Service above Self."  

This week is fairly normal for the most part: Callie is enjoying the more complicated tasks associated with her intermediate studies and I have finals coming up in the next few weeks.  It's hard to believe that we'll be returning home for Christmas so soon, but I guess that time just moves more quickly when you really enjoy what you're doing.  Given how much we've liked Australia thus far, we'll be back before we know it.

On the Road Again

Happy Birthday, Gran!  I started writing this post on your birthday, but I got a little distracted...

It's actually been a fairly eventful couple of weeks since we return from our trip.  The LSAT and Basic Patisserie now behind us, and Wilson is actually in the final few weeks of his semester.  While he somehow manages to crank out paper after paper on topics such as Australian diplomacy, Asia-Pacific relations, or Fijian crises, I'll be tempering chocolate for truffles, pinning and turning puff pastry, or sifting flour and whisking eggs for a sponge.  Wilson claims his lectures are stimulating and intriguing, but frankly, he can't be having as much fun as I am.  All hailing from different parts of the world (France, England, United States), the new chef teachers in Intermediate offer entirely different perspectives and teaching styles.  They are knowledgeable, experienced, and have a sincere desire for us to learn and improve our pastry skills.

We're continuing our tourist activities here in Sydney as well - last Monday was a public holiday, so we ventured into the city to explore Paddy's Market.  Frankly, I've never seen so much junk in one place in my life.  And by junk I mean everything from Australian paraphernalia to suspect seafood to knockoff handbags.  So we decided to ride the monorail around the city for a slightly different perspective.  On Saturday, we returned to Darling Harbour to view the some of the worlds most expensive and luxurious vehicles alongside bizarre concept cars at the Sydney International Motor Show.  There were vintage Mustangs, Volvo station wagons, Holden "utes," Maseratis behind glass fences, and a $2.1 million "supercar" from Sweden.  My favorite part was eating lunch on the waterfront afterwards.

A drive along the coast south of Sydney with John and Kathy consumed our Sunday.  Stopping first at Coalcliff, we walked along the $52 million Seacliff Bridge for an expansive view of the Tasman Sea.  Supposedly, the view is so vast that you can actually see the curvature of the earth...but I'm still skeptical.  We traveled along to Wollongong, stopping for a scrumptious seafood lunch, and then drove several miles south to Kiama, which is known for natural "blowholes" created by ocean swells shooting up within rock formations.  The seas were calm, however, and there were no blowholes to be seen. Oh well, maybe next time.

The Great Red Center, the Great Barrier Reef, and the World's Oldest Rainforest

Over the past several days, Callie and I have been on mid-semester break, and in order to gain a broader appreciation of Australia, we decided to take a little trip.  Granted, "little" is a relative term in a country where everything is much larger and further apart than you would initially think.  But, undeterred by Australia's vast and sparsely populated emptiness, we left Sydney bound for Uluru, the Great Barrier Reef, and the world's oldest rainforest. 

Our first destination was the Ayers Rock Resort in the Northern Territory.  Ayers Rock (or its more appropriate Aboriginal name, Uluru) is the world's largest monolith, which is located in the dry, baked nothingness of the Outback.  Beyond the sheer size of Uluru and the peculiar fact that it rises over one thousand feet in the middle of a flat desert, the rock itself is an incredible geological phenomenon.  Composed of a super-hard and weather resistant sandstone known as arkose, Uluru was formed as the surrounding rock eroded over the course of the last 400 million years.  What remains is a captivating presence that dominates the surrounding landscape.  Unfortunately, we didn't have much time to spend in the park, but we did enjoy dinner under the stars and a guided walk around the base of the rock with a native Aborigine- both of which offered a unique narrative on the creation of the natural environment.  We stayed in a quaint accommodation called the Outback Pioneer, (which reminded Callie of Camp Mac) and while we managed to avoid any serious encounters with the wildlife, our first experience in the Australian Outback left a distinct impression on the both of us, the kind of impression that compels one to return.

From Uluru, we traveled to Cairns (pronounced "cans") and Port Douglas, which is in Northern Queensland.  We arrived in Cairns early Saturday evening and, no thanks to some erratic and incompetent local driving, managed to find Port Douglas.  Port Douglas is about 70 kilometers north of Cairns and is a gateway to both the Great Barrier Reef and the Daintree Rainforest.  

The Great Barrier Reef is the world's largest living organism- composed of 2,900 individual reef formations, populated by 1,500 species of fish, and is visible from space.  Needless to say, it is quite an imposing and beautiful part of the Australian environment, and given the fact that we only had one morning on the reef, it is impossible to do justice to its scope and diversity.  Leaving from Port Douglas early Sunday morning, we made the one-and-a-half hour journey to some of the reef's outer sections aboard the "Aristocat," a local dive and snorkel operation.  Having been a scuba diver for several years, I could hardly sit down, which was quite distracting to Callie, as she was preparing for her first introductory dive.  Despite somewhat limited visibility, the reef was absolutely amazing.  While we didn't see large wildlife, the coral structures were unlike anything I had ever witnessed.  Most reefs have sections of well-developed coral, but they tend to be limited in their size and maturity.  The reefs that we saw, however, were simply loaded with all kinds of corals in every shape and size imaginable.  I'm sorry that we don't have any pictures to validate such claims, but . . . trust us.

Following our day on the Barrier Reef, we spent the better part of Monday exploring Port Douglas.  We walked along the beach, around the town and through the harbour, generally enjoying the absence of structured vacation that had thus far occupied our trip.  We wandered amidst the abundance of local shops, frequented the pool, and enjoyed an early dinner in the anticipation of the next day's adventure to the region's ancient forest.

The Daintree Rainforest is roughly 60 kilometers north of Port Douglas and is basically the last remnants of an ancient forest that covered all of Australia before the last ice age.  As Australia began to warm, the forest retreated in the upper-most reaches of Queensland and the Northern Territory.  Today, the Daintree is one of only a few of these prehistoric environments that remain.  

Our experience in the Daintree began with a beautiful drive through the small agricultural communities that dot the Queensland coast.  Sugarcane is second only to tourism in supporting the local economy, and the region is dominated by paddocks of tall, thick cane that thrive in the area between the mountains and the shore.  We drove by Mossman Gorge, past Snapper Island, over the Daintree River and found ourselves on a spectacularly unspoiled stretch of beach called Cape Tribulation (appropriately named given that Captain Cook ran aground there on the Great Barrier Reef).  Following morning tea complete with lamingtons (more on those later  from Callie), we went sea kayaking, as the barrier reef actually comes right into the shore at Cape Tribulation.  Afterwards, we went swimming in a exquisitely clear freshwater creek, hiked through a privately-owned section of the forest, and took a Daintree River cruise to look for saltwater crocodiles.  Needless to say, it is impossible to recount each of these experiences in such a way that captures the natural majesty of the area, but it is certainly an understatement to describe both the rainforest and the barrier reef as spectacular.  Beyond that, I'm not sure any written description is sufficient.

Now that we have returned to Sydney, we have a few free days left before returning to school and our normal routine.  Callie will begin her intermediate session this week, and I'll return to class for the last weeks of the semester.  We can't say enough about how much we have enjoyed our time thus far in Australia, and having a chance to see more of the country this past week simply adds to our appreciation for this opportunity.  We'll be sure to post more pictures from our trip, but I'm not convinced that any picture or story or experience can capture how truly inspiring and expansive Australia is.  We will try nonetheless . . .       

  

Haircuts, Fireworks, and Completed Assignments: A Report

Well, friends, it seems as though you'll have to endure my less-than-inspiring prose once again here at 42 Wallaby Way, as Wilson will be deeply buried in his studies for the next several days.  For all of you ardent readers out there (I know there are probably so many of you who monitor our blog daily), I'm sorry that our posting had stalled for a couple of weeks.  Truth be told, we were waiting for something slightly more interesting and worthy to write about than the rainbow we saw last weekend.

I'll begin with an update on Wilson:  this week promises to be an intensely academic one with two written assignments due, a mid-term presentation, and final cramming for the LSAT - but I should say he seems to have a grasp on everything in typical Wilson fashion.  Our excursion to Uluru (Ayers Rock) and Port Douglas to explore the Great Barrier Reef and Daintree Rainforest at the end of the week will provide him a much needed break (all Testmasters study materials have been banned from the suitcase).  Perhaps the most exciting thing Wilson has accomplished (other than model my chef's jacket and hat) is getting a haircut.  Susie at Catwalk cut almost 3 inches from his locks on Saturday, much to Mike the barber's dismay, who warned via Warren that he may very well look like "he had been riding a trolley with his head sticking out."  Fortunately he doesn't appear to have just exited a wind tunnel - I personally think his hair looks cute, as do the other ladies at Catwalk, who plan to keep the film from their security cameras just in case he becomes President one day.

I, on the other hand, completed my assessments last week with a passing grade and am wrapping up Basic Patisserie with lessons on Buttercream Gateaux (cake) and Cheesecake.  Eddie and I continue to have a great time together, and today we informed the Le Cordon Bleu office today that we absolutely must be placed in the same class for Intermediate (or they would regret that we ever enrolled!).  Also, my brownies are selling well at Caffelatte, which gives me hope that customers might actually patronize my bakery should I open one someday.

This past weekend was actually quite eventful, as Friday evening we, along with the 7 other Rotary Scholars in the district, were graciously hosted for dinner by Patricia Harrison,  President of Sydney Rotary Club.  The views from her apartment were incredible, as evidenced by the two photos I've posted: the activity in Circular Quay and the grandeur of the Harbor Bridge dominate the vista from her front balcony (complete with evening fireworks), while the Opera House and Botanical Gardens grace the view from the back (including the giant bats that make their home in the gardens by day).  We connected with scholars from Scotland, Germany, England, Japan, Canada, and the U.S., all of whom have invited us to join in their Australian adventures, whether it be surf at Bondi Beach, bike to Canberra, explore Wollongong, or attend a costume-required Halloween party.  The next couple of months should be entertaining, so we'll keep you posted.

9 Gold Medals?

Look out Michael Phelps and Stephanie Rice - you'll have some stiff competition in London in 2012.  We've been swimming weekly at the 2000 Australian Olympic training facility in Ryde, and we swim a mean freestyle - at least compared to the elderly that also frequent the lap pool.  I realize that these photos are somewhat incriminating, but I hope they provide a bit of comic relief for those of you who follow the blog.  After all, goggles are a good look.

Aside from our recently developed hobby, things have remained fairly routine here in Gladesville.  I'm studying for a comprehensive theory exam on Wednesday and preparing for our practical assessment to be conducted over three days next week.  It's hard to believe my basic course will end in two weeks, but I'm certainly looking forward to refining my patisserie skills in the intermediate level of study.  Wilson's courses have demanded more of his time than he originally expected, as he seems to have a written assignment due every couple of days.  He is also continuing his preparation for the LSAT, which he is taking at Macquarie University on October 4th - only 4 weeks left!  Until then, we'll just keep swimming, just keep swimming, just keep swimming . . .

Week in Review

Over this past week Callie and I have been quite busy with the arrival of another American friend to our first Australian "barbie."  Callie has been working and I had my first test, and so we have been pretty occupied over the last several days.

Last Thursday we met Daniel Ferguson, a fellow SpeakFirst debate coach who is actually teaching and researching in Japan over the next year, for a morning in the city.  Daniel was traveling in Australia and New Zealand with a group of Japanese teachers, and having some spare time, we decided to get together.  We walked through the CBD to Circular Quay and took the ferry to Manly, which is a beach community on the northern shore of the harbour.  Although it is less well-known than Bondi Beach, its southern counterpart, it is arguably more picturesque.  We spent our time walking among the abundant boutiques and cafes and along the ocean enjoying the clear water and the gently breaking waves.  Our time was short-lived, however, as Daniel had to depart for Brisbane and I had class in the afternoon, but having a chance to enjoy the morning with a friend from home was certainly a nice way to begin our eventful weekend.

On Friday afternoon, I joined Callie at Caffelatte and had a chance to meet Steve and Kate.  Steve, who Callie works with, and Kate, Steve's wife, are absolutely delightful, and we spent the next several hours getting to know each other.  As it just so happened, Steve and Kate were hosting a neighborhood bonfire and "barbie" the next evening, which they graciously invited us to attend.  The food was amazing as was the company, and we were again showered with the hospitality that must be required to live in Australia.  So . . . we have now attended an authentic Australian barbie, and although we didn't have shrimp (or rather prawns), it felt like an appropriate substitute for our usual end-of-summer Labor Day celebrations.

The only disappointment from the weekend was the fact that Australia suffered its worst Tri-Nations loss ever against South Africa, but our disappointment about the Wallabies was quickly compensated by our elation about the Tide and Tigers.  We were able to watch some of the Alabama-Clemson game through Skype, and having both teams win made the week's beginning more enjoyable.  Between studying and working, things have been pretty normal here.  Callie brought home a variety of fruit desserts, and I had a test in Governance and Civil Society, but otherwise things are routine.  The days are getting both longer and warmer, and with the arrival of spring, we continue to enjoy the abundance and opportunity that has welcomed us in Australia.

Are you ready for some . . . "football"?

Honoring the beginning of the college football season beginning this week, I wanted to post about Australian "football."  This past Saturday, Callie, Dom and I went to watch the Parramatta Eels play the Bankstown 

Bulldogs, which are two teams in the National Rugby League. The game was actually played at the ANZ Stadium, which was the national stadium for the Sydney Olympics in 2000.  

While it certainly didn't have the sentimental appeal of Bryant-Denny or Jordan-Hare, the stadium itself is spectacular.  Surrounded by sculpture gardens and light towers and elaborate fountains, the stadium looks a little bit like a giant satellite dish.  Modern- yet pleasantly aged- it was far from full, but it wasn't hard to imagine how exciting it must have been during the Sydney Games.  Parramatta ended up winning in exciting fashion, but Callie and I both found ourselves subtly wishing that we had we had been watching Alabama or Auburn.   

The first thing to understand about rugby in Australia is that there are three different kinds or "codes": rugby league, rugby union, and Australian rules.  Each code is played differently- different numbers of players, different scoring, and even different sized and shaped fields.  It has taken us the better part of our time here to differentiate each, but on any given weekend, all three codes will be in action.  The Wallabies, Australia's national rugby team, play rugby union, which is considered to be the "educated" version of the sport.  Elite private schools and universities are the purveyors of rugby union as it has a reputation of being more sophisticated.  Rugby league (what we saw on Saturday) appears to be a more commercialized code that is popular because it's more violent in nature.  Australian rules is a code that was originally played in Victoria and has since proliferated nation-wide.  As an outsider, Australian rules looks a lot like soccer.  The players do more kicking of the ball, but it's a faster, higher-scoring game than the other codes.  The games are 80 minutes long with two 40-minute halves, and play is continuous without the starts and stops like American football.

While rugby will never have the nostalgic allure of college football- with the tailgating, the crisp fall afternoons, and the atmosphere of ritual and expectation- we have enjoyed the game nonetheless. We particularly enjoy watching the Wallabies, and it’s hard not to get caught up in the national excitement that accompanies each game.  So, with the arrival of football season this weekend, we offer our best to our respective allegiances as we can’t help but miss the opportunity to attend arguably the greatest of Southern traditions.

For those of you who are also inclined to bake and might like to attempt an official Le Cordon Bleu recipe, I have finally gotten around to posting one. After 5 weeks of training, the Sables Diamantes that we made during our second week remain one of my favorites thus far. And, unlike the Sables Hollander (“chessboard cookies”), they can be easily made at home. A Sable is a French butter cookie – “sable” is French for “sand,” referring to the crumbly texture of this shortbread-like cookie. As you can see in the photo, there are several variations of the traditional Sable, which has fluted edges and is scored with a fork in a criss-cross pattern (not shown).  You'll be making the round cookies in the far right of the photo.  I apologize for the ingredient quantities - we weigh everything at school, and there isn't really a way to convert the weights into volume measurements, so you'll just need a simple kitchen scale.  I'll also clarify the "egg pulp" listed below - just whisk an egg to blend the yolk and white, then measure 30g.  The yolk of a large egg typically weighs 20-25g, so you can just use the yolk to make things easier; it shouldn't have much of an effect on your dough.

Sables Diamantes

225g unsalted butter
100g powdered sugar, sifted
30g egg pulp
2 oranges, zested
¼ tsp. vanilla extract
pinch of salt
320g all-purpose flour

1 egg white

sanding or granulated sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Soften butter slightly, then cream with powdered sugar. (If you have a stand mixer, use the paddle attachment.  You can also make this dough by hand.  The key here is to cream the butter and sugar but not to beat too much air into the mixture; you are not looking for a light and fluffy batter as you normally would when making cookies.)

Add egg pulp (or yolk), orange zest, vanilla and salt; mix until well combined.  Then add the flour and mix gently on low speed or fold in by hand.  When the flour is almost combined, place dough on a lightly floured surface and knead until the dough is smooth and no trace of flour remains.

Take half of dough and roll into a cylinder about 1 1/2" in diameter.  Roll the dough cylinder up in parchment and refrigerate for about 30 minutes; repeat with remaining dough.

Remove one cylinder of dough from parchment.  Brush egg white onto dough using a pastry brush; be sure to cover completely.  Roll dough in a tray or plate of sanding sugar to coat.  Slice dough into 1/3" rounds and place on an ungreased baking sheet.  Bake until the bottom is golden, but the top is still light in color (sorry - they usually don't give us baking times, but it probably takes about 10 minutes).  While one tray bakes, repeat the process with other cylinder of dough.

Let me know if you have any questions or problems - hopefully my instructions aren't too complicated!  Enjoy!

Fish are friends, not food

As many of you may know, Callie and I are quite the fans of an aquarium.  Whether it's in Georgia or New Orleans, we like the chance to observe the graceful and exotic animals and environments that live in the world's waters.  As a result, we spent the better part of today in the Sydney Aquarium.  

I should mention that today's opportunity was actually the result of a very thoughtful wedding present from a friend of mine (thanks Webb), and it was precipitated by an invitation from another friend, Dom Blahut.  Dom had inquired if we wanted to go to the aquarium while we were living with his family, and so we agreed upon this Sunday.  The aquarium sits in in a lovely part of the city called Darling Harbour, which is home to the Sydney Imax, plenty of trendy clubs and restaurants, and a fleet of beautiful private yachts.  We enjoyed an early lunch, while celebrating Grant Hackett's 1500m performance, and spent the early afternoon in the aquarium.

While it isn't nearly as large or new as the Georgia Aquarium, it does have quite a few impressive exhibits from across Australia.  I won't burden any of you with any further details or descriptions, but I will say that we did see the largest skate/stingray that God has ever created: it was estimated to weight almost 1000 pounds, was almost 10 feet wide, and looked as if it could suck your head off.  

After the aquarium, we returned home to watch some of the Olympic coverage and to prepare for the coming week.  Callie will be working on cream puffs and eclairs, which means that we will definitely have to do extra laps in the pool- as swimming is something that we have taken to since our arrival.  And for me, things are pretty normal.  Between studying and reading and going to class, there is plenty to do; all while taking the time to enjoy the opportunities of the city.      

"Rollin' in the Dough"

        Hello friends! I have posted a photo of some sweet rolls I made last week (along with about 10 loaves of various types of bread) since some of you have requested to see the product of my culinary training thus far. This week we focused on chocolate, learning to temper, or bring the chocolate to a certain temperature so that it sets quickly and becomes shiny when cooled. I made several molds including an Easter bunny, a seashell, a pair of bakers, and a couple dozen truffles filled with coffee ganache (yum!). Wednesday we produced Florentines and continued to improve our chocolate piping skills, which is definitely testing my patience.
In addition to producing endless delicious treats, I have actually gotten a job here in Gladesville! Each Friday I’ll be the cook at Caffelatte, a local coffee shop and café. I began Thursday and trained with Renise, the Wednesday/Thursday cook, who was thankfully patient with me as I tried to adjust to the commercial cooking environment. Yesterday I was on my own, and aside from over-cooking a couple of eggs during a flood of breakfast orders, I managed to complete my first day without any disasters. Steve, the owner, kept me going with helpful instruction and encouragement (and a couple of cappuccinos). I’m excited to be earning a bit of money, but it’s probably good that I’m only cooking there once a week…
Wilson is still enjoying his classes, claiming Asia-Pacific politics to be his favorite. He also submitted his first writing assignment, a ministerial briefing about whether or not Australia should appoint a permanent ambassador to the Vatican. When he’s not preparing for class, studying for the LSAT, or working out, he’s glued to the Olympic coverage (as am I).
As for our tourist adventures, we’ve planned a trip to Uluru (Ayers Rock) in the Northern Territory and Port Douglas, an access point to the Great Barrier Reef and Daintree Rainforest in Queensland. Tomorrow, we’re headed to the Sydney Aquarium, so we’ll let you know how that goes!

An American Visitor

Again, apologies for not being more frequent in posting over the past several days, but we have been enjoying the Olympics and an American friend paid us a visit over the weekend.   Dorothy Lanier had been hiking through the bush over the past 35 days, and before flying home, decided to visit Sydney.  It just so happened that we were in the neighborhood, and so we spent most of the weekend seeing the sights with her.

Callie and Dorothy went to Bondi Beach, we visited the Australian Museum, we stumbled into a wedding-in-progress at St. Mary's Cathedral, we meandered through The Rocks and Darling Harbour, and toured the somewhat disappointing Australian Maritime Museum.  The weather was beautiful, however, and it was certainly nice to be with and talk to an old friend.  

Following Dorothy's departure on Sunday morning, Callie and I spent most of the day watching the Olympics, and if anyone can explain Judo, please let us know.  We did play tennis in the morning on an artificial turf surface, which rendered us temporarily incapable of keeping the ball in the court, and we attended a lovely dinner with the President of our host Rotary Club and several other Rotary couples.  Looking out over the evening skyline from above Greenwich Wharf, it was a privilege to be in the company of such gracious and welcoming Rotarians, an experience that again reinforced our initial impressions of Australian hospitality.

This week promises to be relatively normal:  Callie is working with chocolate and I have my first written assignment regarding the announcement of the new permanent Australian ambassador to the Vatican.  Needless to say, we will be enjoying American and Australian success in Beijing over the next few weeks as we anticipate the beginning of the games that are significantly more important . . . college football season.

Well, here it is - the much anticipated photo of my patisserie class at Le Cordon Bleu.  Front Row (left to right):  Shima, Rachel, Tara, Baryl, Kim, and Da.  Back Row:  me, Eddie, Miggy, Bill, and Dobs.  Unfortunately two classmates are missing from the photo; the first is a girl whose name I have forgotten, as she has been absent 7 out of the 9 days class has been held thus far.  The other is Hathaway, who last week decided to name herself after the Princess Diaries star because she was tired of her original name choice, "Suki," being misconstrued as "Sushi."  Hathaway's given Chinese name is pronounced "Uh-uh," like the way a toddler might say "no".  Needless to say, the diverse cultures and personalities in the kitchen are consistently entertaining, and we all continue to learn about one another in addition to the intricacies of patisserie.

The Harbour Bridge

Today was Callie’s birthday, and to commemorate the significance of such an occasion, we decided to climb the world’s largest single span arch bridge. While the Opera House may exist as the definitive popular image of the Sydney waterfront, the most dominating presence is by far the Harbour Bridge. Rising 134 meters high and weighing nearly 53,000 tons, the bridge was the tallest Sydney landmark until 1967. Today it has 8 lanes for traffic, two independent rails lines, two pedestrian walkways, and 6 million rivets. Callie and I, like many other visitors, decided that the Bridge Climb would be a great way to see the city, and 1,437 stairs later, it was well worth every step.

The weather was absolutely beautiful with hardly any clouds and visibility from the Pacific Ocean to the Blue Mountains. The harbour was casually conducting itself this Sunday afternoon as white sails and gentle waves passed lazily underneath our feet. With the city below and nothing but blue sky above, the bridge was a wonderful way to pass the afternoon, and we would highly recommend it to any prospective visitors.

Following our summiting of the bridge, we spent the remainder of the afternoon before dinner walking without any predetermined purpose or direction through the neighborhood known as The Rocks. The Rocks, which sits adjacent to the bridge, is the oldest part of Sydney and is now home to a gentrified collection of homes and trendy shops and restaurants. Nevertheless, it still retains the cobbled streets and slender alleys that serve as a visual testament to its early history. It reminded us a little bit of the French Quarter in New Orleans but cleaner and without any eccentric street performers.

After wandering about for some time, nonchalantly inspecting the menus of the numerous waterfront restaurants, we settled on an Italian bistro that overlooked Circular Quay and the Opera House. We enjoyed an early birthday dinner and returned home to prepare for the week ahead. While Callie and I would both readily agree that birthdays are best spent in the company of family and friends, and while I think we would both confess to enjoy the substantive accoutrements that usually accompany such times, we both noticed that there was something strangely simplifying about today’s events. We hiked to the top of something really big and enjoyed the beautiful view and had a nice dinner, and the memory of such an occasion will probably endure beyond any material gesture. While tomorrow brings the start of another week and a return to school, we are thankful for experiences like today: to celebrate a significant occasion and to gain a lofty perspective.

In the Groove

First of all, let us apologize for not posting more frequently over the past several days. I don’t want to make any excuses, but we have had just a few things to occupy our time- not to mention the fact that our current Internet connection is episodic at best. Again, no excuses, but we are pleased to report that we are finally settled into our apartment and our school routines, and I am pleased to announce that, while mastery remains elusive, I have been steadily improving my ability to manage the Sydney Buses (despite previous allegations otherwise).

Over this past week, I started classes at the University, which continues to be an eclectic experience, and Callie continued study at Le Cordon Bleu, which continues to produce more desserts than we can conceive of eating. She brought home orange zest cookies, fruit cake, fruit tart (see picture), marble cookies and these wonderfully involved cookies that look like miniature checkerboards. I, on the other hand, was able to bring home a significant pile of reading on a variety of topics from international relations theory to the intellectual concept of the “Asia Pacific.” We also had the burdensome privilege of returning to IKEA today to take back several items that had been purchased unnecessarily. Not to continue our polemic against the Swedish furniture manufacturer (given this is our third post dignifying its presence), but it did not disappoint our already diminished expectations . . . and that’s all we have to say about that.

Additionally, we had the opportunity to visit the Sydney Harbour Rotary Club that meets every Friday morning at Circular Quay (pronounced “key”). Circular Quay is immediately north of the Sydney CBD between the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House, and the club itself meets on a private ferry. We were treated to breakfast and a presentation on Australian road safety, all the while being inundated with welcomes and offers to assist us in any way possible. It was yet another example of the friendliness and hospitality and that appears to permeate the Australian culture.

This weekend, which happens to be Callie’s birthday, also promises to be quite eventful. Tomorrow morning, we are going out on the harbour with the SydneyUni Sailing Club and we are going to enjoy a win for the Wallabies over the All Blacks (Australia is playing New Zealand in “footy”). On Sunday, we are going to climb the Harbour Bridge. Hopefully the weather will cooperate (Monday was the coldest day since 1963) and we should be able to enjoy a unique perspective of the city.

I guess, in conclusion, we feel like we now have a sense of place after living with the Blahuts and having assembled our life in our new apartment. Routines are becoming more established, routes are appearing more familiar, and the city is feeling more accessible. Thank you to all the people who have posted comments thus far- we have enjoyed reading your thoughts and it is nice to have a sense of feedback. Please also feel free to post any questions that you might have, and we will do our best to answer. Go The Wallabies!

Living Out of the Box

Wilson mentioned my recent IKEA experience in his previous post, but I’ve decided it requires a bit more attention, especially for those of you who have never visited this famed furniture superstore. So, last Thursday, Kathy and I proceeded along the path through the IKEA showroom, eliminating all but the best bargains. Because I was an IKEA virgin and Kathy had not been in several years, we had no idea we were supposed to do anything other than scribble down the Swedish furniture names (Laxvik, Hemnes, and Eina, for example). So, some advice for any IKEA first timers: be sure to record the items’ warehouse locations, as this operation is entirely self-serve.
After re-navigating the showroom, we loaded our trolleys with every item we had selected, including a sofa, mattress, bed-in-a-box and various other pieces that, of course, required assembly. Loading was the first challenge – maneuvering 3 unwieldy trolleys through the checkouts and on to home delivery was the next. But don’t expect any IKEA employees to assist you – even if your sofa is sliding off one trolley and another trolley is veering toward a towering display of discounted lamps. Rest assured, however, that all parts and pieces will be included in the box and that assembly will require little more than a screwdriver and some persistence with the instructions (even I built our bedside table). Now, thanks to IKEA and handyman Wilson, we come home each day to an apartment that is cute, comfortable, and most importantly, our own.

A Diversity of Faces

Over the past several days, I have been attending the international postgraduate student orientation at The University of Sydney, and while I would consider myself privileged to have been in and around diverse communities before, I can confidently say that I have never seen so many people from so many different places.  There were students from countries that would obviously be attracted to the university given their geographic proximity: from places like Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore, Vietnam, China and India.  There were students who were representing nations that would presumably be attracted to the university given its western intellectual tradition and cosmopolitan location: from places like the U.S., England, France, Switzerland, and most of the states in Europe.  And then there were students from places that I struggled to locate on my mental globe: from places like Kazakhstan , Serbia, and Bulgaria; not to mention students from nations like Iraq and the Congo who- given their current geopolitical situation- didn't seem likely candidates to export their students to a place like Australia.  

I was astounded.  And what made the day even more incredible was the opportunity to talk to some of these people.  For example, I had dinner last night with a student from Dubai who also happens to be studying Public Policy.  She and her husband, who is attending the University of Technology Sydney, moved to Australia about six months ago and are here because they were both awarded national scholarships by the government of the United Arab Emirates.  Truly, I have never been around such a sundry group of people.

Meanwhile, Callie has concluded her first week of classes, and I must say that, judging by what she brought home, things went quite well.  In addition to two different kinds of scones, she made madeleines, friands, genoise, and gateau weekend.  Now, I haven't the vaguest idea what those items actually are, but I certainly know that they tasted good.  At the same time, we have been preparing to move into our apartment this upcoming weekend.  Without class today, Callie travelled to IKEA with Kathy to modestly and inexpensively furnish our new living space, and no thanks to IKEA's deficient notion of customer service, it appears as if our furniture should be delivered tomorrow.  

With a place to live and a few things to go in it, we are feeling just about settled, and while we will absolutely miss the Blahuts, it will be nice to have a place to ourselves.  So . . . it's off to moving this weekend and starting lectures next week.  With a little extra effort, I think I was finally able to confirm my coursework for this semester, which includes classes in Asia Pacific politics, governance and civil society, Australia in diplomacy, defense and trade, and global environmental politics.  Unfortunately, most of the lectures meet in the early evening but I am excited about the course material, and it should be an enjoyable semester amidst an unbelievably populous and multi-cultural student body.